A house built on molecules
Geza Schoen trained at Haarmann & Reimer, now Symrise, where he worked for more than ten years. The idea behind the house is to strip perfume down to the essentials: take a synthetic raw material that usually plays a supporting role and put it at the center of the composition. Escentric Molecules calls itself independent and does not follow the seasonal codes of classic perfumery. New fragrances are still created in Schoen's studio in Berlin.
The lines in our selection
Molecule, the molecule on its own
Each Molecule contains a single raw material. Molecule 01 is Iso E Super, a molecule with woody, velvety notes reminiscent of cedar, and the house presents it as a skin scent, meant to stay close to the skin. Molecule 02 is based on Ambroxan, the synthetic substitute for ambergris. With Molecule 03 the focus shifts to vetiveryl acetate, a molecule that is half natural and half synthetic, obtained from a fraction of vetiver oil treated with acetic acid to remove the bitter, leathery notes of the root, with earthy, green and bright facets. Finally, Molecule 04 is made of Javanol, a synthetic molecule reminiscent of sandalwood.
Escentric, the molecule with a few notes around it
Each Escentric takes the molecule of the Molecule with the same number and places it at the center of a short composition. Escentric 01 is a musky eau de toilette that pairs Iso E Super, at 65%, with pink pepper, lime and other ingredients; according to the product description, the notes pass quickly and the scent settles early on the base, the reverse of the classic sequence. Escentric 02 contains 13.5% Ambroxan, whose mineral note is joined by hedione (green jasmine bud), a gin and tonic accord and a touch of Almdudler, an Austrian lemonade. The darker, exotic, woody side of vetiver is the heart of Escentric 03, which opens with ginger, Mexican lime and pepper over a heart of iris and tea. Escentric 04 is a fresh sandalwood built on Javanol, with pink grapefruit peel, lime zest, juniper, pink pepper and hints of marijuana. Then there is Escentric 05, created by Geza Schoen in 2020, which opens with juniper, rosemary and fig leaf, with iris at the heart and Iso E Super in the base.
Molecule +, Molecule 01 plus one ingredient
The logic is right there in the name: the most essential fragrance, made of a single molecule, gains one ingredient alongside the Iso E Super. Molecule 01 + Iris uses orris absolute from Iris pallida for a creamy powderiness, and Molecule 01 + Mandarino combines freshness with fruity notes. Molecule 01 + Cistus features cistus, while Molecule 01 + Ginger and Molecule 01 + Black Tea contain natural extracts of ginger and black tea. Molecule 01 + Patchouli completes the line.
Cologne One
Cologne One is the house's cologne, built around the idea of a gin and tonic, with juniper for the gin, lime, bergamot, a thread of ginger for a light spice and a cucumber note that heightens the freshness.
How to choose Escentric Molecules, from raw material to scent family
The first choice is between purity and composition: the Molecule lets you smell the raw material on its own, while the Escentric with the same number sets it at the center of a few supporting notes. Then comes the scent family. Lovers of woods can choose between Molecule 01 and Escentric 01 for Iso E Super, Molecule 03 and Escentric 03 for vetiver, and Molecule 04 and Escentric 04 for the sandalwood of Javanol. For amber and mineral notes there are Molecule 02 and Escentric 02, both based on Ambroxan. If you're after citrus, start with Cologne One, Escentric 04 and Molecule 01 + Mandarino; for iris and florals there are Molecule 01 + Iris, Escentric 03 and Escentric 05. The latter, with rosemary, bay leaf and basil, is also the pick for anyone who loves aromatic herbs.
Sizes to try and body care
To try each fragrance before choosing one, there are two sets: the Molecule sample set gathers the Molecule fragrances in 8.5 ml minis, and the Escentric sample set does the same for the Escentric line. For the body there are the Escentric 01, 02, 03 and 04 Body Wash, which the house formulates with an unusually high percentage of fragrance. Each one follows the theme of its number: the molecule of 01, the golden mandarin of Escentric 02, vetiveryl acetate in 03 and Javanol in 04.
Frequently asked questions
What is Escentric Molecules Molecule 01?
Molecule 01 is an eau de toilette made of a single aroma molecule, Iso E Super, used pure. It has woody, velvety notes reminiscent of cedarwood and, according to the product description, shows its character mainly in contact with the skin.
Who created Escentric Molecules?
Escentric Molecules was founded in London in 2006 by German perfumer Geza Schoen and creative director Paul White. Schoen trained at Haarmann & Reimer, now Symrise, where he worked for more than ten years, has also created fragrances for Diesel and Ormonde Jayne, and today works in his Berlin studio.
What is the difference between Molecule 01 and Escentric 01?
Molecule 01 contains only Iso E Super, while Escentric 01 uses the same molecule at 65% together with pink pepper, lime and other ingredients. It is the rule across the house: the Molecule is the pure raw material, and the Escentric with the same number puts it at the center of a short composition.
Why can't some people smell Molecule 01?
Some people perceive Molecule 01 as almost odorless, and the house itself acknowledges this. It describes the scent as an almost intangible presence that merges with the wearer: a skin scent made only of Iso E Super, meant to stay close to the skin rather than project at a distance.
What is the Escentric Molecules Molecule + line?
Molecule + is the line that adds a single ingredient to Molecule 01: Iso E Super remains the base, and the second raw material changes its character. There is Iris, with orris absolute from Iris pallida, Mandarino and Patchouli, then Ginger and Black Tea, with natural extracts, and finally Cistus.
Are Escentric Molecules fragrances for men or women?
They are for everyone, because Escentric Molecules creates fragrances for the skin, not for a gender, and has rejected the split between masculine and feminine since its founding. More than gender, what matters is the raw material of each number: Iso E Super in 01, Ambroxan in 02, vetiveryl acetate in 03 and Javanol in 04.
Which Escentric Molecules fragrance is best for a fresh scent?
For a fresh scent there is Cologne One, built around the idea of a gin and tonic with juniper, lime, bergamot, mandarin and a cucumber note. Among the other fragrances, Molecule 01 + Mandarino adds freshness and fruity notes to Iso E Super, and Escentric 04 opens the Javanol sandalwood with pink grapefruit peel.
What is the Ambroxan in Molecule 02?
Ambroxan is the synthetic molecule that replaces ambergris in perfumery, and it is the only raw material in Molecule 02. The house describes it as fresh, with subtle vibrations of sensuality. In Escentric 02 the same molecule, at 13.5%, is joined by hedione, a gin and tonic accord and a touch of Almdudler.
How can I compare a Molecule with the Escentric of the same number?
The most direct way is the two miniature sets: the Molecule sample set gathers the Molecule fragrances in 8.5 ml minis, and the Escentric sample set does the same for the Escentric line. Trying the same number in both versions, you smell first the pure molecule and then the same molecule inside a composition.
Does Escentric Molecules make body products?
Yes, Escentric Molecules has a line of scented body washes in the Escentric 01, 02, 03 and 04 fragrances. The house formulates them with an unusually high percentage of fragrance, along with gentle cleansers and plant-derived moisturizers that, according to the description, condition and hydrate skin and hair.
