One perfumer, two collections
The house's stated aim is to bring tradition and innovation together, using classic ingredients such as neroli, saffron, vetiver or oakmoss with a contemporary profile.
The numbered series
Fresh, citrus and green
N:1 Tonic Blanc is a fresh scent where neroli dominates the opening, followed by a dry woody base. N:8 Tonic Vert is green and aromatic instead, with crushed fruit leaves, mint, vetiver, oakmoss and bergamot. N:7 Le Sel de la Terre has a salty, lemony opening and a base of woods and musk, with aquatic and floral notes, and it's a perfume you can wear at any hour.
Bright florals and spicy scents
N:5 Frénésie is a fresh floral with peony and osmanthus, fresh musk and dry woods, which the house designed for everyday wear. N:2 Sève Nouvelle is a sophisticated spicy scent, with pink pepper, saffron and a raspberry note that lightens it.
Warm, smoky and leather
N:3 Crépuscule Ardent blends leather, flowers and spice with saffron, frankincense and suede. N:6 Brume Radieuse has smoky, soft and slightly fruity notes, with black currant, rose, vanilla and leather. N:9 Bukhoor Elixir takes its name from the scented wood chips burned in incense burners across the Arab world, and the perfume has woody, smoky accords over a base of agarwood, amber and musk. Finally, according to the house, N:10 Désir du Coeur comes from an approach far from traditional techniques, with captive molecules and raw materials that leave a different imprint on each person.
The Black Collection
The Black Collection gathers the compositions with English names. Arabian Passion opens with saffron and cardamom, has rose and frankincense at the heart and a base of amber and oud. A Never Ending Love is a white rose, with bergamot, orange blossom, musk and dry amber. Light of Grace is clean and elegant, with ambrette, iris, white flowers, vanilla and ambergris. Lastly, Musk Ōtone is an animalic musk softened by gardenia, iris, vanilla and sandalwood, which the house suggests wearing on its own or layered over other perfumes.
How to choose
If you love fresh scents, you can start with Le Sel de la Terre for its salty effect; if you want a floral, there's Frénésie. For spice and warmth there's Sève Nouvelle, with a bright spice, and Crépuscule Ardent, with leather. If incense and smoke draw you in, there's Brume Radieuse.
Frequently asked questions
Who is Thomas Kosmala?
Thomas Kosmala is a perfumer who trained in Paris, studying classical perfumery, and now creates his fragrances in an independent lab. His house, with locations in London, Dubai and New York, offers eaux de parfum that use traditional raw materials with a contemporary profile.
What do the numbers in Thomas Kosmala perfumes mean?
The numbers show each fragrance's place in the house's main series, from N:1 Tonic Blanc to N:10 Désir du Coeur. The number doesn't indicate an olfactory family: the series ranges from fresh scents like Tonic Blanc and Tonic Vert to spicy, smoky ones like Crépuscule Ardent and Bukhoor Elixir.
What does N:9 Bukhoor Elixir smell like?
N:9 Bukhoor Elixir is a woody, smoky perfume, with woody and smoky accords in the opening and a base of agarwood, amber and musk. The name comes from bukhoor, wood chips soaked in fragrant ingredients that are burned in incense burners in Arab tradition to scent the home.
What is the Thomas Kosmala Black Collection?
The Black Collection is the house's line with English names, built on oud, amber, rose and musk. It includes Arabian Passion, which is spicy and resinous, A Never Ending Love, a white rose, Light of Grace, with iris and ambrette, and Musk Ōtone, an animalic musk.
Which Thomas Kosmala perfume is best for oud lovers?
For oud there's Arabian Passion, from the Black Collection, which opens with saffron and cardamom, has rose and frankincense at the heart and a base of oud and amber. If you prefer a smoky woody scent, try N:9 Bukhoor Elixir, from the numbered series, which has agarwood in its base notes.
What's the difference between Tonic Blanc and Tonic Vert?
Tonic Blanc and Tonic Vert are both fresh, but with a different character. N:1 Tonic Blanc is bright and simple, dominated by neroli with a base of dry woods. N:8 Tonic Vert is green and aromatic instead, with crushed fruit leaves, mint, vetiver, oakmoss and bergamot.
Is A Never Ending Love a men's or women's perfume?
It's designed for both: the house describes A Never Ending Love as balanced between masculine and feminine. It opens with white rose and bergamot, has orange blossom and musk at the heart and a base of dry amber and rose absolute.
Can you layer Musk Ōtone?
Yes, the house designed Musk Ōtone to be worn on its own or layered over other fragrances, adding a fresh, full-bodied musk. On its own, the house presents it as a perfume with character, a modern musk that stays classic.
