Amouage: perfume as a gift of kings
The house was established in 1983 by Prince Sayyid Hamad bin Hamoud Al Busaidi at the request of Sultan Qaboos, and its first perfume was composed by Guy Robert, a perfumer from Grasse. To understand the range, you have to start with Oman, a land that has traded frankincense and myrrh for centuries. Today the perfumes are composed by noses working in Paris, Grasse, Geneva and New York, but they are made at the Muscat factory, which is open to visitors. For many fragrances the house also states the percentage of perfume oils and the maceration and maturation times, such as the six weeks for Dia Woman.
The Amouage collections
Main Collection: the classics in Man and Woman versions
The Main Collection is the historic core of the house, and many of its fragrances come in both a Man and a Woman version. Gold Man, with frankincense, rose and ambergris, was the perfume the Sultan offered as a gift to kings and princes. Pierre Negrin created Interlude Man, a spicy woody scent without flowers, with oregano, frankincense, opoponax, leather and agarwood, while Reflection Man, by Lucas Sieuzac, brings together rosemary, neroli, iris and sandalwood. Among the feminine scents is Honour Woman, a white floral bouquet inspired by Madama Butterfly; Dia Woman is an aldehydic floral with a vintage feel, and Epic Woman a spicy oriental inspired by the Silk Road. The other masculine scents are Journey Man, with Sichuan pepper, cardamom, frankincense and tobacco, Overture Man, with cognac, myrrh and sandalwood, and Portrayal Man, with violet leaf, vetiver and cade oil. Finally, Jubilation XXV Woman pairs a floral heart with frankincense.
Odyssey Collection: Guidance, Purpose and Oman
The Odyssey is a largely genderless collection. It includes Guidance, in which Quentin Bisch takes up the house trio of rose, frankincense and ambergris and adds pear and hazelnut. Purpose features bergamot, rose, papyrus, sandalwood and saffron, and Bisch also created Decision, with frankincense, bergamot and juniper berries. Existence, finally, is built around lily of the valley. The collection also has its "chapters," each dedicated to a specific place in Oman: Ashore to the Ras Al Jinz coast, Enclave to the Musandam fjords, with peppermint and earthy notes, and Crimson Rocks to the Al Hajar mountains, with cinnamon, rose and honey.
Library Collection: the Opus line
The Library is home to the Opus fragrances. Opus XIV Royal Tobacco, by Cécile Zarokian, combines frankincense and tobacco, while Opus XII Rose Incense sets the two signature notes of the house side by side. Opus XV King Blue works with mandarin, amber and oud, and Opus XVI Timber is a vertical woody scent with cypress, juniper and palo santo.
Secret Garden: the gourmand florals
The Secret Garden gathers the house's gourmand florals. Love Tuberose has gardenia, tuberose and vanilla, Lilac Love combines lilac, iris and cocoa, and Blossom Love features cherry blossom, amaretto and vanilla. Love Delight and Love Hibiscus, with hibiscus and a caramelized palmier accord, complete the collection.
Eau de parfum, Exceptional Extraits and Essences
According to the house, its eaux de parfum contain between 15% and 35% perfume oils and the extraits between 40% and 56%. In the Exceptional Extraits, the number in the name is the concentration itself: there are Guidance 46, Purpose 50, Reflection 45, Epic 56, Honour 43, Dia 40 and Jubilation 40, plus Interlude 53, which matures for six months at the Muscat factory. The Essences are a separate line, all at 30%: Lustre, Reasons and Outlands belong to the first act, Sequence, Line 618 and Remain to the second, and they age for six months with a double infusion in sandalwood chips and oak barrels.
How to choose an Amouage perfume
If you want something fresh and aromatic, start with Search, with lime and mandarin, or Decision, with citrus and juniper. For lovers of rose with frankincense there is Opus XII Rose Incense, while those who prefer white flowers can choose Love Tuberose.
Body, hair and gifts
Guidance also comes as a shower gel, body lotion and hair perfume, all with Omani frankincense. Love Delight is available as a limited-edition body lotion and as a gift set with the 100 ml eau de parfum and the shower gel.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between Amouage Honour Woman and Honour 43?
Honour Woman is the eau de parfum from the Main Collection, while Honour 43 is its Exceptional Extrait version, with 43% perfume oils and long maceration and maturation. Both are the same white floral inspired by Madama Butterfly, with tuberose, jasmine and gardenia.
What does the number in some Amouage perfume names mean?
In the Exceptional Extraits, the extrait versions of the house's perfumes, the number indicates the percentage of perfume oils. Guidance 46 contains 46%, Interlude 53 contains 53% and Epic 56 contains 56%. The corresponding eaux de parfum have lower concentrations, which according to the house range from 15% to 35%.
What does Amouage Guidance smell like?
Guidance is an eau de parfum by Quentin Bisch built on the house trio of rose, frankincense and ambergris. Its notes also include pear, hazelnut and jasmine sambac. Besides the eau de parfum, there is the extrait, Guidance 46, as well as body and hair products.
What is the difference between Reflection Man and Reflection 45?
Reflection Man is the Main Collection eau de parfum by Lucas Sieuzac, with rosemary, bitter orange, neroli, iris and sandalwood. Reflection 45 is its Exceptional Extrait version, with 45% perfume oils and spicy notes in the opening.
Which Amouage perfume is best for women?
If you love white flowers, choose Honour Woman or its extrait, Honour 43, while Dia Woman is an aldehydic floral with a vintage feel, with iris, rose and peony. Guidance combines rose, frankincense and pear without a declared gender. The Secret Garden adds gourmand florals such as Love Tuberose, Lilac Love and Blossom Love, with vanilla, cocoa and amaretto.
What is the difference between Interlude Man and Interlude Black Iris?
Interlude Man is a spicy woody scent with oregano, frankincense, opoponax and leather, and Interlude Black Iris is a new take on it with softer contrasts, adding iris and putting frankincense and myrrh at the center. Interlude 53, on the other hand, is the extrait, which matures for six months in Muscat.
What are the chapters of the Amouage Odyssey Collection?
The Odyssey chapters are eaux de parfum inspired by specific places in Oman. Ashore evokes the Ras Al Jinz coast, with jasmine, ambergris and sandalwood, Enclave honors the Musandam fjords, with peppermint and earthy notes, and Crimson Rocks the Al Hajar mountains, with cinnamon, rose and honey. Boundless belongs to the second chapter, Lineage to the third.
Why is frankincense so prominent in Amouage perfumes?
Oman has traded frankincense and myrrh for centuries, and Amouage has made frankincense its signature. You will find it in Guidance, Purpose, Interlude Man and Gold, and in the Library in Opus XIV Royal Tobacco. Omani frankincense oil is also among the ingredients of the body line.
